On our last night in London we wanted to find a great, local burger place. Staying in Covent Garden within a few blocks of both a Shake Shack and a Five Guys kept nagging at my senses. We needed burgers!
Using Google to see what Londeners were calling their best burgers and narrowing it down to those within walking distance of our hotel, we settled on a dive of a place, MEATmarket.
A simple enough menu of burgers and dogs in a small place on the Mezzanine level above the Jubilee Market in Covent Garden. It's only got half a dozen tall bar tables with stools - enough to sit four at a table and graffiti all over the walls. Ordering was efficient and the wait fairly short. This place gets crowded! Lots of young couples seemingly on first dates (odd).
We ordered two Black Palace burgers served each with two beef patties, cheese, grilled onions, pickles, mustard and ketchup (and a tomato).
These were two of the messiest burgers we've ever had. I took off my light jacket & rolled up my sleeves before even attempting the first bite. I mean - look at that crazy, dripping, cheesy patty!!
The burger was fantastic! Really, really great - on par with Shake Shack and Five Guys to be sure. Excellent flavor in every bite. The bun couldn't stand up to the sloppiness of the ingredients mixing together - in the end you were just holding onto something that used to resemble a burger. And perhaps if we went again I'd ditch the pickles - but damn, that's a great burger. Fries were also excellent - crispy and hot.
If you are in the area, highly recommend popping in...but leave your expectations about ambiance at the door (literally) and prepare to get dirty!
http://www.themeatmarket.co.uk/
Showing posts with label burgers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label burgers. Show all posts
Tuesday, October 22, 2013
MEATmarket, Burgers in London
Location:
Covent Garden, London WC2E, UK
Thursday, November 29, 2012
Best Burgers in the US (Food & Wine)
In an article appearing today (11/27/2012) on www.foodandwine.com, they listed what they consider the best burgers in the United States. You'll see their picks reprinted below.
I've only had five of the 23 burgers listed below - Ray's Hell Burger, BLT Burger, Shake Shack, Father's Office and In-N-Out - so it's hard to know if I align with the choices on the F&W list. I've been to two other establishments; Minetta Tavern in NYC but didn't try the burger & Gott's in Napa when it was still called Taylor's Refresher and did love the traditional cheeseburger, not the Ahi burger they listed in this article.
Of the five, I think all of those deserve a spot on this list. I would have also included Five Guys (yes, it's that good), the burger from Wolfgang Puck's Postrio in Las Vegas and most recently the burger from Phil's Grill at Gray Wolf Golf Course in Scottsdale, AZ.
What do you think - did they get it right? Are they missing an excellent burger? How many of these have you tried?
Arlington, VA: Ray's Hell Burger
Signature Burger: Basic Beef Burger (served in a brioche bun). Dedicated fans—a certain president included—come here for the freshly ground burgers with and complimentary toppings like grilled onions and mushrooms sautéed in sherry and Cognac.

Ohio: B-Spot Burgers
Signature Burger: Lola Burger. Michael Symon, F&W Best New Chef 1998, specializes in "meat on meat" burgers at his Ohio-based chain B-Spot. Named after his Cleveland flagship, the Lola Burger could almost double as a breakfast sandwich since it's piled high with bacon and a fried egg (in addition to pickled red onions, cheddar cheese and mayo).

Las Vegas, NV: BLT Burger
Signature Burger: BLT Burger with BLT Burger Sauce (bacon-and-red-onion-topped chuck and sirloin burger on a bed of lettuce, tomato and tarragon Russian dressing) At BLT Burger in Las Vegas, chef Laurent Tourondel brushes burgers with butter while they're on the grill. The natural sugars caramelize, making the meat extra-delicious.

New York City: Peter Luger
Signature Burger: Luger Burger (served with raw onions and house-made steak sauce, served in a sesame bun). The broiled "Luger Burger"—prepared with a porterhouse and prime chuck blend—at this legendary steakhouse is served only during lunch until 3:45 p.m. peterluger.com
Hackensack, NJ: White Manna
Signature Burger: Cheeseburger (topped with onions, served in a soft bun).
This old-school diner has built its reputation on heavenly sliders piled high with thin-cut onions. It's been using the same butcher for the past 50 years.

New York City: Shake Shack
Signature Burger: ShackBurger (Black Angus beef patty topped with American cheese, tomato, lettuce, and "Shack Sauce," served in a grilled potato bun).
Uber restaurateur Danny Meyer's beloved mini empire has a cult following among Gotham burger geeks. Must-order items include the ShackBurger (served with American cheese, tomato, lettuce, and "Shack Sauce" in an old-fashioned wax paper wrapper) and a "hand-spun" chocolate-and-peanut-butter custard shake. shakeshacknyc.com

Healdsburg, CA: Healdsburg Bar & Grill
Signature Burger: HBG Burger (fresh-ground Meyer Natural Angus beef patty topped with Alexander Valley Gourmet pickles, served in a toasted Costeaux Bakery sourdough bun; roasted garlic mayonnaise on the side). For his terrific burger, star chef Douglas Keane uses a 70-30 lean-to-fat ground beef ratio. healdsburgbarandgrill.com
Boston, MA: Craigie on Main
Signature Burger: Beefburger. Star chef Tony Maws adds bone marrow and dehydrated miso to his Bar Burger, and cooks it in a low heat CVap oven, followed by a quick char on the plancha. craigieonmain.com

Dearborn, MI: Miller's Bar
Signature Burger: World Famous Ground Round Burger (ground round beef topped with Velveeta, mustard, ketchup, dill pickle chips and onions). The popular no-frills burgers here have been served since the late 1940s. millersbar.com

Meriden, CT: Ted's
Signature Burger: Steamed Cheeseburger (prepared with Vermont cheddar).
Ted's has been serving its steamed burgers—a regional specialty—since 1959. tedsrestaurant.com

Washington D.C: Palena Café
Signature Burger: Palena Cheeseburger (Kobe-style beef patty topped with Sottocenere al Tartufo truffled cheese and garlic mayonnaise, served in a house-baked roll with housemade pickles). Former White House chef Frank Ruta's much-lauded burgers can be had in the boisterous front room. palenarestaurant.com

New York City: Little Owl
Signature Burger: Bacon Cheeseburger. Chef Joey Campanaro gets his beef from famed Manhattan purveyor Pat LaFrieda and serves each burger on a house-baked bun, with just a hint of molasses. Pickles from legendary purveyor Guss' Pickles are served on the side. thelittleowlnyc.com
Los Angeles: Father's Office
Signature Burger: The Office Burger (dry-aged beef patty topped with Gruyère cheese, Maytag blue cheese, arugula and applewood-bacon compote). Sang Yoon's noodle bar Lukshon might be getting a ton of buzz, but the provocative chef first made his name with his dry-aged beef burgers. Among the finest in the country, they justify the strict no-ketchup policy. The 36 craft beers on tap change seasonally. fathersoffice.com

New York City: The Spotted Pig
Signature Burger: Spotted Pig Burger. When the Pig opened in 2004, it was known mostly for its celebrity owners—Jay-Z and Mario Batali, to name two. Now April Bloomfield is famous in her own right for her excellent gastropub menu, which includes an excellent burger made with brisket, rump and chuck, topped with Roquefort cheese. thespottedpig.com
New Haven, CT: Louis' Lunch
Signature Burger: The Original Burger (prepared with a combination of chuck and sirloin beef). Many restaurants claim to be the birthplace of the hamburger. Louis' Lunch, in New Haven, Connecticut, since 1900, is a leading contender. The meaty hand-shaped patties are grilled on antique cast-iron broilers over an open flame. louislunch.com

Napa: Gott's Roadside
Signature Burger: Ahi Burger (seared Ahi tuna burger topped with ginger-wasabi mayonnaise and Asian slaw, served in a toasted egg bun). Brothers Joel and Duncan Gott's witty, reimagined '50s diner used to be named Taylor's Refresher, but it's still a Napa-area favorite for comfort cravings—especially burgers. gottsroadside.com

Chicago: David Burke Primehouse
40 Day Dry Aged Prime Steak Burger. In its simplest incarnation, this juicy burger is topped with sautéed garlic spinach, crispy fried shallots and bacon mayonnaise. Additional toppings include fried pickles, a fried egg, superspicy “angry” shrimp and crab-and-asparagus hollandaise sauce. davidburkesprimehouse.com

Buffalo Gap, TX: Perini Ranch Steakhouse
Signature Burger: Ranch Burger (topped with mushrooms, onions, green chiles and choice of cheddar or provolone cheese). Self-taught cowboy cook Tom Perini masters the art of open-flame cooking using mesquite coals at his hay barn turned steakhouse, smack in the middle of the state. periniranch.com

San Francisco: Zuni Café
Signature Burger: House-ground hamburger (served in a grilled rosemary focaccia). Instead of traditional cucumber pickles, legendary chef-owner Judy Rodgers accents her burgers with thin-cut zucchini strips pickled in apple cider vinegar, mustard seeds and turmeric. zunicafe.com

California: In-N-Out Burger
Signature Burger: Cheeseburger. Even superstar chef Thomas Keller is a fan of the West Coast chain—and with good reason. The cooked-to-order burgers are made with beef from Southwest ranches and served with hand-cut fries. For a messier, more indulgent experience, order your burger "Animal Style" for extra sauce and chopped grilled onions. in-n-out.com

Chicago, IL: Custom House Tavern
Signature Burger: Custom House Burger (short rib and sirloin patty topped with aged cheddar cheese and shaved onion, served in a sourdough brioche bun). The "Custom House Burger" comes with house-made steak sauce and hand-cut fries. customhouse.cc

Atlanta, GA: Holeman & Finch
Signature Burger: Burger (two cheeseburgers on a house-made bun). Star chef Linton Hopkins announces "burger time"—10 p.m.—with the ringing of two bull horns; that's when two dozen grass-fed beef burgers are up for grabs and consistently sold out within minutes. The burgers are also available on the Sunday brunch menu. holeman-finch.com

New York City: Minetta Tavern
Signature Burger: Black Label Burger (topped with caramelized onions). Minetta Tavern's excellent burgers use a beef blend—dry-aged rib eye, skirt steak, brisket and short rib—from famed purveyor Pat LaFrieda, and buns from Balthazar Bakery. minettatavernny.com
I've only had five of the 23 burgers listed below - Ray's Hell Burger, BLT Burger, Shake Shack, Father's Office and In-N-Out - so it's hard to know if I align with the choices on the F&W list. I've been to two other establishments; Minetta Tavern in NYC but didn't try the burger & Gott's in Napa when it was still called Taylor's Refresher and did love the traditional cheeseburger, not the Ahi burger they listed in this article.
Of the five, I think all of those deserve a spot on this list. I would have also included Five Guys (yes, it's that good), the burger from Wolfgang Puck's Postrio in Las Vegas and most recently the burger from Phil's Grill at Gray Wolf Golf Course in Scottsdale, AZ.
What do you think - did they get it right? Are they missing an excellent burger? How many of these have you tried?
Arlington, VA: Ray's Hell Burger
Signature Burger: Basic Beef Burger (served in a brioche bun). Dedicated fans—a certain president included—come here for the freshly ground burgers with and complimentary toppings like grilled onions and mushrooms sautéed in sherry and Cognac.
Ohio: B-Spot Burgers
Signature Burger: Lola Burger. Michael Symon, F&W Best New Chef 1998, specializes in "meat on meat" burgers at his Ohio-based chain B-Spot. Named after his Cleveland flagship, the Lola Burger could almost double as a breakfast sandwich since it's piled high with bacon and a fried egg (in addition to pickled red onions, cheddar cheese and mayo).
Las Vegas, NV: BLT Burger
Signature Burger: BLT Burger with BLT Burger Sauce (bacon-and-red-onion-topped chuck and sirloin burger on a bed of lettuce, tomato and tarragon Russian dressing) At BLT Burger in Las Vegas, chef Laurent Tourondel brushes burgers with butter while they're on the grill. The natural sugars caramelize, making the meat extra-delicious.
New York City: Peter Luger
Signature Burger: Luger Burger (served with raw onions and house-made steak sauce, served in a sesame bun). The broiled "Luger Burger"—prepared with a porterhouse and prime chuck blend—at this legendary steakhouse is served only during lunch until 3:45 p.m. peterluger.com
Hackensack, NJ: White Manna
Signature Burger: Cheeseburger (topped with onions, served in a soft bun).
This old-school diner has built its reputation on heavenly sliders piled high with thin-cut onions. It's been using the same butcher for the past 50 years.
New York City: Shake Shack
Signature Burger: ShackBurger (Black Angus beef patty topped with American cheese, tomato, lettuce, and "Shack Sauce," served in a grilled potato bun).
Uber restaurateur Danny Meyer's beloved mini empire has a cult following among Gotham burger geeks. Must-order items include the ShackBurger (served with American cheese, tomato, lettuce, and "Shack Sauce" in an old-fashioned wax paper wrapper) and a "hand-spun" chocolate-and-peanut-butter custard shake. shakeshacknyc.com
Healdsburg, CA: Healdsburg Bar & Grill
Signature Burger: HBG Burger (fresh-ground Meyer Natural Angus beef patty topped with Alexander Valley Gourmet pickles, served in a toasted Costeaux Bakery sourdough bun; roasted garlic mayonnaise on the side). For his terrific burger, star chef Douglas Keane uses a 70-30 lean-to-fat ground beef ratio. healdsburgbarandgrill.com
Boston, MA: Craigie on Main
Signature Burger: Beefburger. Star chef Tony Maws adds bone marrow and dehydrated miso to his Bar Burger, and cooks it in a low heat CVap oven, followed by a quick char on the plancha. craigieonmain.com
Dearborn, MI: Miller's Bar
Signature Burger: World Famous Ground Round Burger (ground round beef topped with Velveeta, mustard, ketchup, dill pickle chips and onions). The popular no-frills burgers here have been served since the late 1940s. millersbar.com
Meriden, CT: Ted's
Signature Burger: Steamed Cheeseburger (prepared with Vermont cheddar).
Ted's has been serving its steamed burgers—a regional specialty—since 1959. tedsrestaurant.com
Washington D.C: Palena Café
Signature Burger: Palena Cheeseburger (Kobe-style beef patty topped with Sottocenere al Tartufo truffled cheese and garlic mayonnaise, served in a house-baked roll with housemade pickles). Former White House chef Frank Ruta's much-lauded burgers can be had in the boisterous front room. palenarestaurant.com
New York City: Little Owl
Signature Burger: Bacon Cheeseburger. Chef Joey Campanaro gets his beef from famed Manhattan purveyor Pat LaFrieda and serves each burger on a house-baked bun, with just a hint of molasses. Pickles from legendary purveyor Guss' Pickles are served on the side. thelittleowlnyc.com
Los Angeles: Father's Office
Signature Burger: The Office Burger (dry-aged beef patty topped with Gruyère cheese, Maytag blue cheese, arugula and applewood-bacon compote). Sang Yoon's noodle bar Lukshon might be getting a ton of buzz, but the provocative chef first made his name with his dry-aged beef burgers. Among the finest in the country, they justify the strict no-ketchup policy. The 36 craft beers on tap change seasonally. fathersoffice.com
New York City: The Spotted Pig
Signature Burger: Spotted Pig Burger. When the Pig opened in 2004, it was known mostly for its celebrity owners—Jay-Z and Mario Batali, to name two. Now April Bloomfield is famous in her own right for her excellent gastropub menu, which includes an excellent burger made with brisket, rump and chuck, topped with Roquefort cheese. thespottedpig.com
New Haven, CT: Louis' Lunch
Signature Burger: The Original Burger (prepared with a combination of chuck and sirloin beef). Many restaurants claim to be the birthplace of the hamburger. Louis' Lunch, in New Haven, Connecticut, since 1900, is a leading contender. The meaty hand-shaped patties are grilled on antique cast-iron broilers over an open flame. louislunch.com
Napa: Gott's Roadside
Signature Burger: Ahi Burger (seared Ahi tuna burger topped with ginger-wasabi mayonnaise and Asian slaw, served in a toasted egg bun). Brothers Joel and Duncan Gott's witty, reimagined '50s diner used to be named Taylor's Refresher, but it's still a Napa-area favorite for comfort cravings—especially burgers. gottsroadside.com
Chicago: David Burke Primehouse
40 Day Dry Aged Prime Steak Burger. In its simplest incarnation, this juicy burger is topped with sautéed garlic spinach, crispy fried shallots and bacon mayonnaise. Additional toppings include fried pickles, a fried egg, superspicy “angry” shrimp and crab-and-asparagus hollandaise sauce. davidburkesprimehouse.com
Buffalo Gap, TX: Perini Ranch Steakhouse
Signature Burger: Ranch Burger (topped with mushrooms, onions, green chiles and choice of cheddar or provolone cheese). Self-taught cowboy cook Tom Perini masters the art of open-flame cooking using mesquite coals at his hay barn turned steakhouse, smack in the middle of the state. periniranch.com
San Francisco: Zuni Café
Signature Burger: House-ground hamburger (served in a grilled rosemary focaccia). Instead of traditional cucumber pickles, legendary chef-owner Judy Rodgers accents her burgers with thin-cut zucchini strips pickled in apple cider vinegar, mustard seeds and turmeric. zunicafe.com
California: In-N-Out Burger
Signature Burger: Cheeseburger. Even superstar chef Thomas Keller is a fan of the West Coast chain—and with good reason. The cooked-to-order burgers are made with beef from Southwest ranches and served with hand-cut fries. For a messier, more indulgent experience, order your burger "Animal Style" for extra sauce and chopped grilled onions. in-n-out.com
Chicago, IL: Custom House Tavern
Signature Burger: Custom House Burger (short rib and sirloin patty topped with aged cheddar cheese and shaved onion, served in a sourdough brioche bun). The "Custom House Burger" comes with house-made steak sauce and hand-cut fries. customhouse.cc
Atlanta, GA: Holeman & Finch
Signature Burger: Burger (two cheeseburgers on a house-made bun). Star chef Linton Hopkins announces "burger time"—10 p.m.—with the ringing of two bull horns; that's when two dozen grass-fed beef burgers are up for grabs and consistently sold out within minutes. The burgers are also available on the Sunday brunch menu. holeman-finch.com
New York City: Minetta Tavern
Signature Burger: Black Label Burger (topped with caramelized onions). Minetta Tavern's excellent burgers use a beef blend—dry-aged rib eye, skirt steak, brisket and short rib—from famed purveyor Pat LaFrieda, and buns from Balthazar Bakery. minettatavernny.com
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Phil's Grill at Grayhawk GC, Scottsdale, AZ
We are just back from a long weekend in Scottsdale - golfing, eating and hanging out with Jeff & Dana. The weather was hot, the landscape stark and beautiful and the golf challenging due to their annual overseeding happening this time of year.
Alan and I basically landed, dropped our luggage off at the hotel and drove over to Grayhawk Golf Club to catch up with Jeff, have lunch and make a 1:30pm tee time on Talon. Phil's Grill is the restaurant & bar homage to their PGA Tour ambassador, Phil Mickelson. Photos of him, articles and memorabilia are displayed tastefully but in force all over the dining room along with TVs tuned to the golf channel (plus one showing the baseball game). Leather chairs, a hardwood bar and a comfortable feel overall this looked like a great place to begin our Scottsdale experience.

Jeff was already there, sharing a table with Dell, whom he'd just met that morning as they were paired up together in a morning tee time. Dell (awesomely nice guy, so happy to meet him) had already ordered as we were skimming the menu and placing our order. The Navajo corn chowder he was eating smelled so good it's a miracle I didn't ask him for a bite! He said it had great flavor with a strong kick.
For lunch Alan ordered the Southwestern Chicken wrap in a tomato basil tortilla with seasoned chicken, lettuce, tomato, bacon, cheddar cheese and chipolte mayo served with fries. Not a bad sandwich but a bit on the plain side and while originally thinking it was too hot to order something served warm , he wished he'd ordered the burger.
Jeff ordered the Prime Rib sandwich with pepper jack cheese, au jus and creamy horseradish and fries. The beef was very thinly sliced and layered into a long kaiser roll. Jeff said it was really good.
I ordered the Barn Burger with lettuce, tomatoes and jack cheese...and fries. This is the first time I've ever gotten a burger that was shaped more or less rectangle served on a long, also rectangle shaped kaiser style bun. The cheese was a wonderfully melted mess lathered all over and into the bun. I added my normal ketchup, mayo and mustard and bit it. HOLY COW...what a good burger!! A really, really good burger. I highly recommend the burger!!
While we were waiting on our lunches, Dell's entree arrived which looked so good I'm going to note it here as well. He got the Southwestern Caesar with blackened salmon and tortilla strips. I never wanted to eat a stranger's food so badly as I did Dell's lunch. If we go back, I'm getting that salad...and a burger.
Alan and I basically landed, dropped our luggage off at the hotel and drove over to Grayhawk Golf Club to catch up with Jeff, have lunch and make a 1:30pm tee time on Talon. Phil's Grill is the restaurant & bar homage to their PGA Tour ambassador, Phil Mickelson. Photos of him, articles and memorabilia are displayed tastefully but in force all over the dining room along with TVs tuned to the golf channel (plus one showing the baseball game). Leather chairs, a hardwood bar and a comfortable feel overall this looked like a great place to begin our Scottsdale experience.
Jeff was already there, sharing a table with Dell, whom he'd just met that morning as they were paired up together in a morning tee time. Dell (awesomely nice guy, so happy to meet him) had already ordered as we were skimming the menu and placing our order. The Navajo corn chowder he was eating smelled so good it's a miracle I didn't ask him for a bite! He said it had great flavor with a strong kick.
For lunch Alan ordered the Southwestern Chicken wrap in a tomato basil tortilla with seasoned chicken, lettuce, tomato, bacon, cheddar cheese and chipolte mayo served with fries. Not a bad sandwich but a bit on the plain side and while originally thinking it was too hot to order something served warm , he wished he'd ordered the burger.
Jeff ordered the Prime Rib sandwich with pepper jack cheese, au jus and creamy horseradish and fries. The beef was very thinly sliced and layered into a long kaiser roll. Jeff said it was really good.
I ordered the Barn Burger with lettuce, tomatoes and jack cheese...and fries. This is the first time I've ever gotten a burger that was shaped more or less rectangle served on a long, also rectangle shaped kaiser style bun. The cheese was a wonderfully melted mess lathered all over and into the bun. I added my normal ketchup, mayo and mustard and bit it. HOLY COW...what a good burger!! A really, really good burger. I highly recommend the burger!!
While we were waiting on our lunches, Dell's entree arrived which looked so good I'm going to note it here as well. He got the Southwestern Caesar with blackened salmon and tortilla strips. I never wanted to eat a stranger's food so badly as I did Dell's lunch. If we go back, I'm getting that salad...and a burger.
Labels:
2012,
burgers,
grill,
Scottsdale
Location:
Scottsdale, AZ, USA
Monday, June 25, 2012
Father's Office, Los Angeles, CA
Touted as one of the best burgers around, I was looking forward to trying out Father's Office. Located in the Culver City neighborhood of LA this is a go to place. We got there very early having just flown in from New Jersey and starving, we arrived at 4pm. It was quiet at that point which let us grab a great picnic style table and benches outside while we ordered burgers, wine and microbrewed beers.
The place filled up rapidly starting at 5pm and was still packed when we eventually left at 9pm. Through the evening many different friends and co-workers of Alan and our host for the evening, Nick, arrived. Almost everyone ordered the burger even though there were about a dozen things on the menu including crab cakes, salads and even bone marrow.
The burger is the star here and the only choice really is how you want it cooked - opting for medium rare is the popular choice. The burger came on a French demi-baguette with carmelized onions, blue and gruyere cheeses and a heaping pile of arugula. This was served with shoestring potatoes and a garlic aioli dipping sauce.
The Father's Office policy is no condiments - no mustard, ketchup, mayo...nothing but the garlic sauce which was fantastic by the way. So once I knew that after making the mistake of asking (such a Yankee tourist), I bit in and sighed with happiness. It really was a fantastic burger. To start with - the baguette held up really well against the dripping juiciness of the meat and cheese. The combination of bite from the blue cheese, the tang from the arugula and the mellow creaminess of the Gruyere blended together to make for one damn good burger.
Zagat: 23-16-14
Jenn's Rating: 84
Rated Top 12 Burger's in America by Gourmet Magazine
4 out of 5 stars on Yelp.com
The place filled up rapidly starting at 5pm and was still packed when we eventually left at 9pm. Through the evening many different friends and co-workers of Alan and our host for the evening, Nick, arrived. Almost everyone ordered the burger even though there were about a dozen things on the menu including crab cakes, salads and even bone marrow.
The burger is the star here and the only choice really is how you want it cooked - opting for medium rare is the popular choice. The burger came on a French demi-baguette with carmelized onions, blue and gruyere cheeses and a heaping pile of arugula. This was served with shoestring potatoes and a garlic aioli dipping sauce.
The Father's Office policy is no condiments - no mustard, ketchup, mayo...nothing but the garlic sauce which was fantastic by the way. So once I knew that after making the mistake of asking (such a Yankee tourist), I bit in and sighed with happiness. It really was a fantastic burger. To start with - the baguette held up really well against the dripping juiciness of the meat and cheese. The combination of bite from the blue cheese, the tang from the arugula and the mellow creaminess of the Gruyere blended together to make for one damn good burger.
Zagat: 23-16-14
Jenn's Rating: 84
Rated Top 12 Burger's in America by Gourmet Magazine
4 out of 5 stars on Yelp.com
Labels:
2012,
burgers,
California
Location:
Culver City, CA, USA
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Burger Joint, Le Parker Meridien NYC
Alan and I had a rare opportunity to meet for lunch in the city last week. Looking around at our choices, we quickly decided it was a perfect day to head over to 56th between Sixth & Seventh Avenues to the Le Parker Meridien hotel for a burger. Now prior to meeting Mary & Steve, we never heard of the Burger Joint tucked away in this midtown hotel. But with much animation, they described this as one of the must try burgers in the city so it's been on our list ever since.
The first thing to note about the Burger Joint is that it's quite literally hidden away. Even knowing it was tucked into an obscure corner down a little hallway, we still couldn't find it and had to ask for directions from the concierge. Sure enough it's behind a long red curtain, down a dark little hallway and only marked with a small neon sign of a hamburger.
We got there right at noon - luckily - since this place is quite small. Getting a seat wasn't a problem when we arrived, but there was a line by the time we left our little, rundown booth. It's got the feel of a biker sports bar combo and looks like it's not been updated since 1974. The menu consists of three things: hamburger, cheeseburger and grilled cheese. They offer french fries and an assortment of beers, shakes (after 1:30pm) and wine (hello, is this Taylor's Refresher?!?).
We ordered cheeseburgers with lettuce, tomato, ketchup and mayo plus I added mustard to mine. They cook to order and we got them done medium. We split an order of fries and a diet Coke. The bill came to $21.00 - we paid and grabbed a booth to wait for our lunch. It only took maybe five minutes before our order was up.
This is a no fuss, no muss kind of place. The burgers themselves were on the small side if you compare them to a Shake Shack or Five Guys. But the taste was very good - nice blend of bun to meat to condiments. I would have liked the burger to be a little juicier and a little bigger, but overall it was pretty good. I'd go back and get two of them and maybe order it medium-rare. The fries were better than decent so overall, a win. If you can find it and deal with the lunch crowd (go early) it's worth it!
The first thing to note about the Burger Joint is that it's quite literally hidden away. Even knowing it was tucked into an obscure corner down a little hallway, we still couldn't find it and had to ask for directions from the concierge. Sure enough it's behind a long red curtain, down a dark little hallway and only marked with a small neon sign of a hamburger.
We got there right at noon - luckily - since this place is quite small. Getting a seat wasn't a problem when we arrived, but there was a line by the time we left our little, rundown booth. It's got the feel of a biker sports bar combo and looks like it's not been updated since 1974. The menu consists of three things: hamburger, cheeseburger and grilled cheese. They offer french fries and an assortment of beers, shakes (after 1:30pm) and wine (hello, is this Taylor's Refresher?!?).
We ordered cheeseburgers with lettuce, tomato, ketchup and mayo plus I added mustard to mine. They cook to order and we got them done medium. We split an order of fries and a diet Coke. The bill came to $21.00 - we paid and grabbed a booth to wait for our lunch. It only took maybe five minutes before our order was up.
This is a no fuss, no muss kind of place. The burgers themselves were on the small side if you compare them to a Shake Shack or Five Guys. But the taste was very good - nice blend of bun to meat to condiments. I would have liked the burger to be a little juicier and a little bigger, but overall it was pretty good. I'd go back and get two of them and maybe order it medium-rare. The fries were better than decent so overall, a win. If you can find it and deal with the lunch crowd (go early) it's worth it!
Location:
New York, NY, USA
Tuesday, October 11, 2011
Ray's Hell Burger, Take II
Take II in the post title is referring to the second post about the same place, not that it's my second experience. But this past weekend, Alan and I had the most wonderful fortune to be spending a glorious few days with Paul, Sarah and Amelia in Alexandria, Virginia. To start off the fun, we took a drive out to Arlington to Ray's to see if this burger place lived up to the reputation (as previously posted by Paul).
The place is a bit of a dump...clean, but nothing to look at. In a strip mall with no ambiance, lots of handwritten signs directing you where to go, how to order and to make sure you hit the ATM before you place your order since it's cash only. But there's a roll of paper towels on every table top making me think when we walked in that they were serious about how juicy these burgers were going to be.
The menu was bigger than I expected - luckily Sarah had multiple copies in the car to peruse before getting there. http://www.rayshellburger.com/ laid out the options and I settled pretty quickly on wanting my traditional cheeseburger but with the addition of grilled onions because I think I've decided that they are truly an enhancement. You'll see if you check out the menu that Ray's cooks the burger to your order - medium rare, medium, medium well and even well done. This is one of the differentiating points that separates Ray's from a Shake Shack or Five Guys putting it a bit more in the "gourmet burger" camp. Though the price ($6.99) does lean it more towards fast food, it would be too hard to compare this to a mass produced burger chain.
I was clear in my mind that I would be going with a grilled burger served with Vermont white cheddar, lettuce, tomato and grilled onions and that I'd be adding mustard, ketchup and mayo (someone really should bottle this combination for me - it would save a lot of time and mess making). And I'd be sharing skin on fries with everyone plus stealing a few bites of Amelia's mac & cheese.
No line, we got right up to the counter but the ordering process was harder than it should have been. They were training a new person and the young lady was so quiet she was impossible to hear over the loud din of grills and fans coming from the kitchen. We placed our orders, hoped she got it all right, got our assigned number and grabbed a seat to wait for the burgers to emerge. Not much waiting - out they came! Both Paul and Alan's burgers were missing the bacon they ordered...luckily the waitress quickly came back with a double side order they got on their burgers before they had cooled off or even had a bite taken out of them. By the way - we got there around 6pm and it was pretty empty, a few people eating at tables outside and one or two other people inside. By the time we left a little before 7pm it was packed solid with a line to order and all the tables filled.
The burger is nicely sized at 10 ounces - bigger than most fast food restaurants but not so daunting you can't pick it up. Still a two handed affair, but doable. I loved that they put the lettuce between the patty and the bun...it gave my bun a fighting chance to withstand at least a few minutes of the juicy, dripping soak that was to come. The cheddar had a sharpness to it that was a refreshing change from standard, tasteless American and the grilled onions were smokey and sweet. I picked it up and bit in.
It's not the best burger I've ever had - that honor still goes to the one at Postrio in Las Vegas - but, DAMN, that's a great burger!! Perfectly cooked to my specification of medium it was loaded with flavor and texture. First off, it tasted like a burger with real beef in it. The combination of toppings was messy to be sure but worked together to give an explosion of hot and cold, crisp and soft, sweet and tangy. Seriously, a really, really good burger. I couldn't put it down. Literally, it started falling apart on me almost immediately and my hands were the only things holding it barely all together. So I ate it fast, washed it down with an Old Dominion Root Beer and mopped up the mess left on my hands, table and shirt afterwards. Thank God for the paper towels!
The fries were good and salty...but not quite as good as Five Guys. The mac & cheese was just so/so. The shakes that everyone ordered To Go were thick and flavorful. All that being said, the star is definitely the burger and shouldn't be missed if you're in the area.
I wasn't alone of course and am hoping Paul, Sarah and Alan will add their own comments about their burgers and their experience. But I for one will go back and will be looking forward to it!
The place is a bit of a dump...clean, but nothing to look at. In a strip mall with no ambiance, lots of handwritten signs directing you where to go, how to order and to make sure you hit the ATM before you place your order since it's cash only. But there's a roll of paper towels on every table top making me think when we walked in that they were serious about how juicy these burgers were going to be.
The menu was bigger than I expected - luckily Sarah had multiple copies in the car to peruse before getting there. http://www.rayshellburger.com/ laid out the options and I settled pretty quickly on wanting my traditional cheeseburger but with the addition of grilled onions because I think I've decided that they are truly an enhancement. You'll see if you check out the menu that Ray's cooks the burger to your order - medium rare, medium, medium well and even well done. This is one of the differentiating points that separates Ray's from a Shake Shack or Five Guys putting it a bit more in the "gourmet burger" camp. Though the price ($6.99) does lean it more towards fast food, it would be too hard to compare this to a mass produced burger chain.
I was clear in my mind that I would be going with a grilled burger served with Vermont white cheddar, lettuce, tomato and grilled onions and that I'd be adding mustard, ketchup and mayo (someone really should bottle this combination for me - it would save a lot of time and mess making). And I'd be sharing skin on fries with everyone plus stealing a few bites of Amelia's mac & cheese.
No line, we got right up to the counter but the ordering process was harder than it should have been. They were training a new person and the young lady was so quiet she was impossible to hear over the loud din of grills and fans coming from the kitchen. We placed our orders, hoped she got it all right, got our assigned number and grabbed a seat to wait for the burgers to emerge. Not much waiting - out they came! Both Paul and Alan's burgers were missing the bacon they ordered...luckily the waitress quickly came back with a double side order they got on their burgers before they had cooled off or even had a bite taken out of them. By the way - we got there around 6pm and it was pretty empty, a few people eating at tables outside and one or two other people inside. By the time we left a little before 7pm it was packed solid with a line to order and all the tables filled.
The burger is nicely sized at 10 ounces - bigger than most fast food restaurants but not so daunting you can't pick it up. Still a two handed affair, but doable. I loved that they put the lettuce between the patty and the bun...it gave my bun a fighting chance to withstand at least a few minutes of the juicy, dripping soak that was to come. The cheddar had a sharpness to it that was a refreshing change from standard, tasteless American and the grilled onions were smokey and sweet. I picked it up and bit in.
It's not the best burger I've ever had - that honor still goes to the one at Postrio in Las Vegas - but, DAMN, that's a great burger!! Perfectly cooked to my specification of medium it was loaded with flavor and texture. First off, it tasted like a burger with real beef in it. The combination of toppings was messy to be sure but worked together to give an explosion of hot and cold, crisp and soft, sweet and tangy. Seriously, a really, really good burger. I couldn't put it down. Literally, it started falling apart on me almost immediately and my hands were the only things holding it barely all together. So I ate it fast, washed it down with an Old Dominion Root Beer and mopped up the mess left on my hands, table and shirt afterwards. Thank God for the paper towels!
The fries were good and salty...but not quite as good as Five Guys. The mac & cheese was just so/so. The shakes that everyone ordered To Go were thick and flavorful. All that being said, the star is definitely the burger and shouldn't be missed if you're in the area.
I wasn't alone of course and am hoping Paul, Sarah and Alan will add their own comments about their burgers and their experience. But I for one will go back and will be looking forward to it!
Labels:
2011,
Arlington,
burgers,
Washington DC
Location:
Arlington, VA, USA
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Kobe Burgers at Home
For our last "cook at home" evening here at the rental house on Kiawah Island, South Carolina, we decided to do burgers (we had already made steaks one night and a lobster / shrimp / clam bake on another). The local market, Newton Farms, is a cross between Wegmans and Whole Foods with a nice butcher, fish market and produce section. While Susan and I went window shopping around Freshfield Farms, Rich, Alan and Connor went out for provisions to make our burgers.
They came home with four kobe beef patties, half pound each and buns from the bakery section of the store. The plan was to grill up the patties after being treated with Montreal seasonings and have available for everyone to construct their burger a selection of Boar's Head center, thick cut bacon, caramelized sweet onion, iceberg lettuce, tomato, ketchup, mayo, American & Blue cheeses.
We had an immediate technical difficulty...after the grill was heated up, right when Rich went to put them on, the propane tank ran dry. This being a rental house and us having only used the grill one other time, we were both shocked and outraged to be propane-less at this exact moment. But not to be swayed, we went with Plan B...cooking them in fry pans on the stove top. While the burgers might have lacked the telltale grill marks, they more than made up for in taste.
The picture above is Alan's burger. Kobe patty with melted blue cheese, lettuce, bacon, tomato, mayo, ketchup, caramelized onion on the fresh bun. The burger was really juicy and flavorful and cooked perfectly. The only issue was the bun...after two bites it begun a quick disintegration. The overall combination of condiments worked and resulted in a gorgeous burger experience.
We all deviated slightly with choice of toppings but all agreed, these were pretty spectacular burgers. We rounded out the meal with crisper french fries & ranch dressing and a green salad. Awesome!
They came home with four kobe beef patties, half pound each and buns from the bakery section of the store. The plan was to grill up the patties after being treated with Montreal seasonings and have available for everyone to construct their burger a selection of Boar's Head center, thick cut bacon, caramelized sweet onion, iceberg lettuce, tomato, ketchup, mayo, American & Blue cheeses.
We had an immediate technical difficulty...after the grill was heated up, right when Rich went to put them on, the propane tank ran dry. This being a rental house and us having only used the grill one other time, we were both shocked and outraged to be propane-less at this exact moment. But not to be swayed, we went with Plan B...cooking them in fry pans on the stove top. While the burgers might have lacked the telltale grill marks, they more than made up for in taste.
The picture above is Alan's burger. Kobe patty with melted blue cheese, lettuce, bacon, tomato, mayo, ketchup, caramelized onion on the fresh bun. The burger was really juicy and flavorful and cooked perfectly. The only issue was the bun...after two bites it begun a quick disintegration. The overall combination of condiments worked and resulted in a gorgeous burger experience.
We all deviated slightly with choice of toppings but all agreed, these were pretty spectacular burgers. We rounded out the meal with crisper french fries & ranch dressing and a green salad. Awesome!
Friday, September 23, 2011
18 Burgers, Matawan
That's right...18 Burgers, not 25. We were surprised to see this new burger place with such a similar name open on on Route 79 in Matawan inside the Philly Cheesesteak Factory but haven't given it much thought in the last few months. We don't drive up that way very often - out of sight, out of mind.
But last night we did pass by it on our way to meet with our financial planner and had already discussed hitting up Stewart's on the way home. Based on the rarity of being close by, we decided to give 18 burgers a shot.
The menu reminded me of the one at 25 Burgers in Bound Brook (http://www.18burgers.com/) with a lot of choices from plain patties up to The Belly Buster that is a three quarter pound monster topped with mozzarella sticks, chicken fingers, potato wedges and cheese. Despite all the decadent options on the list, I went with an everyday cheese burger for my evaluation of this place's potential. I ordered it with American cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo and added ketchup and mustard. The standard "Jenn" order. As you can see from the picture below...it looked promising. The fries served alongside were skin on, old fashion style that I'm particularly fond of.
But last night we did pass by it on our way to meet with our financial planner and had already discussed hitting up Stewart's on the way home. Based on the rarity of being close by, we decided to give 18 burgers a shot.
The menu reminded me of the one at 25 Burgers in Bound Brook (http://www.18burgers.com/) with a lot of choices from plain patties up to The Belly Buster that is a three quarter pound monster topped with mozzarella sticks, chicken fingers, potato wedges and cheese. Despite all the decadent options on the list, I went with an everyday cheese burger for my evaluation of this place's potential. I ordered it with American cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo and added ketchup and mustard. The standard "Jenn" order. As you can see from the picture below...it looked promising. The fries served alongside were skin on, old fashion style that I'm particularly fond of.
Location:
Matawan, NJ, USA
Thursday, September 8, 2011
The Best Burgers in New Jersey
Thanks to Steve for sending in this article from New Jersey Monthly and their recent burger cook off...
We considered fanning teams of tasters across the state to report on state of the art bur-gers. Such sampling is essential with pizza (see NJM cover story, February 2010), brunch (February 2009), diners (February 2008) and the cornucopia of cheap eats (February 2007), because those are not readily moveable feasts. Meaning you can’t easily bring them to one location for a cook-off to determine the best.
The hamburger, though, is a free spirit. Even in its most elaborate form, the ingredients are easily transported, and the three main ways of cooking it—on a griddle, over a flame grill or in a pan on a stove—require only standard equipment found in most professional kitchens. So the idea began to take shape: Hold a one-day battle for bragging rights among some of the best burgers in New Jersey.
The first requirement was a central location. New Brunswick made sense. Then we needed a partner. We lucked out with the people from the Heldrich Hotel. The Heldrich is new and handsome, and the dining facilities are first-rate, with a huge behind-the-scenes prep area, an attractive open kitchen and a private dining room where we could sequester the judges for what would be a blind tasting.
We recruited an expert panel of five tasters—Time.com food columnist Josh Ozersky, author of three books, including The Hamburger; NJM’s in-the-know Table Hopping with Rosie blogger, Rosie Saferstein; NJM restaurant reviewer and veteran food writer Pat Tanner; George Faison, one of the founders of the specialty meat company D’Artagnan and partner and chief operating officer of the premium meat purveyor DeBragga & Spitler; and NJM editor Ken Schlager, a dedicated fresser with a picky palate. [Here, meat maven Ozersky sings the praises of the simplest, humblest and most affordable burger, the White (Castle-Rose-Diamond-Manna-Mana) slider.]
Next came the toughest part—deciding which rest-aurants to invite, and how many. After talking with the judges and other foodies, we decided 10 hamburgers was the most that could humanely be fed to sentient beings in a single seating before palates pooped out and tummys trembled.
So which ten? We wanted, first of all, a geographical mix of North, Central and South. We wanted a range of restaurants, from crowd-pleasing pubs to fine-dining establishments, with maybe a diner or specialty joint thrown in. We wanted places that pride themselves on their burgers, that sell a lot of them, that have won praise and maybe even awards for their burgers. We wanted some from among perennial winners in our annual Readers’ Choice Restaurant and Best Of Jersey polls.
At last the competitors were chosen and the day of the Great Burger Showdown arrived—a Monday, when many restaurants are closed, making it easier for chefs to spend half a day in transit and competition (all except the crew at Christopher’s, who would be competing in their home kitchen at the Heldrich, and Stage Left in New Brunswick, who merely had to cross the street). Furthest South: Lucky Bones, Cape May. Furthest North: The Iron Horse, Westwood. Furthest East: Frankie’s, Point Pleasant Beach. Furthest West: Vincentown Diner, Vincentown.
The call was for 11:30 am. Pulling wheeled coolers, chefs began arriving an hour before that. Each was allowed to bring a helper or two. Owners could tag along; some made themselves useful slicing tomatoes and toasting buns, while others paced. In two instances—Zod Arifai of Next Door in Montclair and Evan Blomgren of Rocky Hill Inn in Rocky Hill—the owner is the chef. In one case, the owner, Lee Tremble of Iron Horse, is father of the chef, Sean Tremble. Pop, who is white-bearded and burly and wore a pink baseball cap, kept up a cheerful patter.
First order of business was drawing lots to determine in which order the chefs would cook. The Christopher’s kitchen supplied an iron pot into which 10 numbered, sealed chits were tossed, and chefs took turns plucking one out. As it happened, Christopher’s drew number 1. Whether that was an advantage (judges would be fresh) or a disadvantage (by the time nine more burgers were tasted, how much would be remembered about number 1?) nobody could say. Copeland drew number 10 (palette fatigue or the power of the last word?). Would the middle contestants get lost in the shuffle?
There was no chance of that. Not with these judges. Saferstein may be small (4 feet 10 inches) but, she said, only half joking, “They call me Big Mouth.” Tanner eats about 130 restaurant meals a year, plus cooks at home. Faison can discuss flavor and marbling of every cut of meat, characteristics of different cattle breeds and finishing diets, and aging and curing methods until, so to speak, the cows come home. Ozersky is a carnivore’s carnivore, built like a linebacker and blessed with a palate as decisive as the swing of a butcher’s cleaver. One bite, maybe two, and he pronounces judgment. Schlager is Everyman, but with an editor’s eyeshade.
As soon as the judges arrived they were whisked into the private dining room, where they remained, except for bathroom breaks. Their places were set with knives and forks, linen napkins and glasses of sparkling water for palate cleansing. They weren’t told who the competitors were. Burgers were identified for them only by number on information sheets that listed each burger’s ingredients.
The cooking was set up so that each chef’s five burgers would be tasted at their peak, within seconds of coming off the grill. Once lots were drawn, the chefs repaired to the rear kitchen to prep. As soon as number 1 (Jason Zimmerman of Christopher’s) was ready, he took to the grill and started cooking. The minute his burgers were plated, placed on a tray and carried to the judges by Heldrich food and beverage director Gershon, the next chef took his place in the open kitchen at his choice of stove, griddle or grill.
Most of the entries were proven crowd-pleasers leaping directly from the menus of their respective restaurants. The Christopher’s team, however, had brainstormed, inventing new burgers just for the contest. “We did a six-burger tasting on Friday,” declared one of the team. “The winner was incredibly juicy.”
It was also incredibly complex, involving a Texas toast (aka thick-sliced) brioche bun with toppings of caramelized shallots, oven-dried “teardrop” tomatoes, bone marrow aioli, braised short rib meat and fried parsley. Nonetheless, it made a strong first impression. “I would take a trip to eat this burger,” said Ozersky, who in fact had done just that. (An Atlantic City native, he now lives in Brooklyn.) “I would be surprised if this burger is not in my top three.”
Entry number 2 was the signature burger of the Rocky Hill Inn, topped with cheddar, grilled onions, bacon and the surprise of a sunnyside-up egg. “The yolk gets all gooey and that’s what makes the burger good,” explained chef/owner Evan Blomgren, expertly cracking eggs onto the griddle with one hand. The burger was served open-face, top bun on the side.
In the judges’ room, Faison clapped the lid on and lifted it to his lips. “A breakfast burger!” he enthused. “Here we go.” It was big, and Saferstein had trouble getting her hands around it. The judges did like its looks. “Maybe there is something to be said for appearance scores,” said Ozersky. Still, he jotted down on his score sheet, “Hard to eat.”
Third up were the road warriors of Lucky Bones Backwater Grille, who had driven more than 120 miles to set before the judges a blend of ground chuck, short rib and skirt steak. “People want something new,” said chef Sean McCullough, “and I think we’re giving that to them with this blend.” Like all the chefs, McCullough had to get the feel of the flame broiler, which he estimated to be running at 350 to 400 degrees. “It’s hot!” he said. At that temperature, all six burgers (one in each batch was sent to the photographers for a portrait, followed by freelance nibbling) cooked in about eight minutes or less. Schlager, lifting his top bun, examined the patty and said, “I like the char.”
The panel’s Burger number 4 was dubbed the “French Onion” by its makers from Burger Deluxe in Wayne. “We get the idea from the French onion soup,” said partner Zeki Yesilyurt. “We caramelize our onions with the white wine and thyme and then we add some nice beef broth in there. And then we simmer the onions slowly until real nice.” The French onions were slipped underneath the patty, which was topped with Gruyere cheese and a crispy/tangy parmesan crust. The judges thought there was too much beef stock in the onions, which made for a wet bottom.
Coincidentally, the French onion theme returned in Burger number 5 (chef Oleg Zelenko and the Vincentown Diner). The burger had crispy, deep-fried frizzled onions instead of simmered French ones, but each came with what looked like a cup of soup—actually beef and chicken stock jus. Zelenko declared it “my little secret, French onion soup minus onions.” The burger had other talking points: all the competitors’ rolls were toasted, Zelenko’s were buttered as well; the patties were topped with melted Swiss cheese and a squiggle of creamy horseradish sauce; the patty was of 100 percent Jersey-raised grass-fed beef, which is naturally leaner than grain-finished beef.
“It’s a very original concept,” Ozersky said. “And the chef has avoided the folly of lettuce and tomato.” One judge cut his in half and dipped an end into the steaming jus. But after taking a bite his comment concerned the patty. “It’s a bit too lean,” he said. “It needs more fat.” “I’m sorry,” Tanner countered. “This chef knew what he was doing. He has exactly the right proportions of everything.”
To help the judges keep track, one of each sampled burger was lined up along the edge of the long table when the other plates were removed. We were now halfway through. Five partly consumed bur-gers formed a disheveled chorus line. The judges were wisely pacing themselves, resisting the urge to take extra bites of the ones they liked best.
In came number 6. Compared to the teetering towers that had preceded it, this one, from chef Zod Arifai’s Next Door, was broad but compact. Ozersky, showing his expertise, seized on a truth about Arifai’s burger. “This is from a black pan,” he announced. “Whoever made this used clarified butter in a hot pan.” Topped just with partly melted cheddar (partial melting retains more cheese flavor, Arifai later explained) and caramelized onions, this burger, declared Saferstein, “isn’t overwhelming. You can enjoy it. I love the bun. These onions are really good.” Faison noted, “the cheese has a more pronounced flavor than what we’ve been having.”
Ozersky was the most enthusiastic. “This is a perfectly constructed burger,” he said. “We haven’t had one where the cheese and bun just perfectly complement the burger and create a transparency. Not only that, but look at the crust. It’s perfect mahogany from edge to edge.” Mr. One Bite then gave the ultimate compliment: “I ate more than I needed to. It’s just so easy going down.”
Unknown to the judges, burger number 7—at 11 ounces the biggest of the day—was at a slight disadvantage. Coming from Stage Left, which is across the street from the Heldrich, it is normally cooked over an applewood fire, which produces a lot of smoke when the fat drips down, imparting a smoky taste to the meat. For the competition, chef J.R. Belt started the patties on the wood fire, “marking” them, before bringing them across the street to be finished on the Heldrich’s gas grill. One of the judges declared it “the best beef I’ve had yet today, but it’s not cooked properly. It’s nearly raw inside. There is a certain temperature you have to hit.” Dressed with thick slices of tomato and red onion, plus lettuce, plus that thick patty, the burger was one of the tallest of the day. Commented another judge, “This is like the new building they just put up in Abu Dhabi.”
The judges faulted burger number 8, from Frankie’s in Point Pleasant Beach, for being overcooked, though it did have a beautiful char and mouth-watering lava flows of glossy cheddar. One judge didn’t care for the kaiser roll.
The ninth, from the Iron Horse, was given points for “the great aroma from the fresh basil,” two judges noted. But the panel didn’t care for the mozzarella with which the patty was stuffed, deeming it “gummy.”
The final burger, with its beautiful dark char and glistening toasted bun, was judged perhaps the most attractive of the day. Hopes ran high that it would be a grand slam. Instead, as the panelists bit into it, number 10 (from Copeland in Morristown) struck out. The patty was nearly raw inside. “That’s not what I wanted for the last one,” a judge said reprovingly.
The judges had been giving each burger point scores in five categories: bun, patty, toppings, appearance and overall edibility. Now they totalled up the scores, then assigned each burger a final rank, from one to ten. The results were tallied and the burgers were ranked accordingly.
Rocky Hill Inn took fourth place with a score of 25 points. Three other burgers tied with the day’s best scores, so the judges used first-place votes as tie-breakers. Burgers 1 (Christopher’s in the Heldrich) and 7 (Stage Left) each had one first-place vote. The judges—still not knowing the identities of the contestants—held a run-off vote between the two, which resulted in Stage Left finishing third and Christopher’s second. A strong performance by the two New Brunswick restaurants.
There was no doubt about the overall winner. Burger number 6 (Zod Arifai’s Next Door) got three first-place votes.
It was the simplest burger of the day. Just the patty, caramelized onions and aged Vermont cheddar. Actually, there was one other ingredient, which Arifai called critical—salt.
“Salting is the most important element in any cooking,” he said. “You can have the best meat, best fish, best vegetables, but if you don’t salt properly it won’t taste good. And,” he added, “it’s just as important not to oversalt as not to undersalt.”
After the four winners were announced to good-natured applause, the chefs, NJM staffers, photographers and videographers dispersed. The judges went on their way. My competition organizer duties done, I had a strange hankering for a hamburger.
The Great Burger Showdown
Ten of the best (and biggest) burgers in New Jersey square off for bragging rights in our first cook-off.
Posted January 17, 2011 by Eric Levin
We considered fanning teams of tasters across the state to report on state of the art bur-gers. Such sampling is essential with pizza (see NJM cover story, February 2010), brunch (February 2009), diners (February 2008) and the cornucopia of cheap eats (February 2007), because those are not readily moveable feasts. Meaning you can’t easily bring them to one location for a cook-off to determine the best.
The hamburger, though, is a free spirit. Even in its most elaborate form, the ingredients are easily transported, and the three main ways of cooking it—on a griddle, over a flame grill or in a pan on a stove—require only standard equipment found in most professional kitchens. So the idea began to take shape: Hold a one-day battle for bragging rights among some of the best burgers in New Jersey.
The first requirement was a central location. New Brunswick made sense. Then we needed a partner. We lucked out with the people from the Heldrich Hotel. The Heldrich is new and handsome, and the dining facilities are first-rate, with a huge behind-the-scenes prep area, an attractive open kitchen and a private dining room where we could sequester the judges for what would be a blind tasting.
We recruited an expert panel of five tasters—Time.com food columnist Josh Ozersky, author of three books, including The Hamburger; NJM’s in-the-know Table Hopping with Rosie blogger, Rosie Saferstein; NJM restaurant reviewer and veteran food writer Pat Tanner; George Faison, one of the founders of the specialty meat company D’Artagnan and partner and chief operating officer of the premium meat purveyor DeBragga & Spitler; and NJM editor Ken Schlager, a dedicated fresser with a picky palate. [Here, meat maven Ozersky sings the praises of the simplest, humblest and most affordable burger, the White (Castle-Rose-Diamond-Manna-Mana) slider.]
Next came the toughest part—deciding which rest-aurants to invite, and how many. After talking with the judges and other foodies, we decided 10 hamburgers was the most that could humanely be fed to sentient beings in a single seating before palates pooped out and tummys trembled.
So which ten? We wanted, first of all, a geographical mix of North, Central and South. We wanted a range of restaurants, from crowd-pleasing pubs to fine-dining establishments, with maybe a diner or specialty joint thrown in. We wanted places that pride themselves on their burgers, that sell a lot of them, that have won praise and maybe even awards for their burgers. We wanted some from among perennial winners in our annual Readers’ Choice Restaurant and Best Of Jersey polls.
At last the competitors were chosen and the day of the Great Burger Showdown arrived—a Monday, when many restaurants are closed, making it easier for chefs to spend half a day in transit and competition (all except the crew at Christopher’s, who would be competing in their home kitchen at the Heldrich, and Stage Left in New Brunswick, who merely had to cross the street). Furthest South: Lucky Bones, Cape May. Furthest North: The Iron Horse, Westwood. Furthest East: Frankie’s, Point Pleasant Beach. Furthest West: Vincentown Diner, Vincentown.
The call was for 11:30 am. Pulling wheeled coolers, chefs began arriving an hour before that. Each was allowed to bring a helper or two. Owners could tag along; some made themselves useful slicing tomatoes and toasting buns, while others paced. In two instances—Zod Arifai of Next Door in Montclair and Evan Blomgren of Rocky Hill Inn in Rocky Hill—the owner is the chef. In one case, the owner, Lee Tremble of Iron Horse, is father of the chef, Sean Tremble. Pop, who is white-bearded and burly and wore a pink baseball cap, kept up a cheerful patter.
First order of business was drawing lots to determine in which order the chefs would cook. The Christopher’s kitchen supplied an iron pot into which 10 numbered, sealed chits were tossed, and chefs took turns plucking one out. As it happened, Christopher’s drew number 1. Whether that was an advantage (judges would be fresh) or a disadvantage (by the time nine more burgers were tasted, how much would be remembered about number 1?) nobody could say. Copeland drew number 10 (palette fatigue or the power of the last word?). Would the middle contestants get lost in the shuffle?
There was no chance of that. Not with these judges. Saferstein may be small (4 feet 10 inches) but, she said, only half joking, “They call me Big Mouth.” Tanner eats about 130 restaurant meals a year, plus cooks at home. Faison can discuss flavor and marbling of every cut of meat, characteristics of different cattle breeds and finishing diets, and aging and curing methods until, so to speak, the cows come home. Ozersky is a carnivore’s carnivore, built like a linebacker and blessed with a palate as decisive as the swing of a butcher’s cleaver. One bite, maybe two, and he pronounces judgment. Schlager is Everyman, but with an editor’s eyeshade.
As soon as the judges arrived they were whisked into the private dining room, where they remained, except for bathroom breaks. Their places were set with knives and forks, linen napkins and glasses of sparkling water for palate cleansing. They weren’t told who the competitors were. Burgers were identified for them only by number on information sheets that listed each burger’s ingredients.
The cooking was set up so that each chef’s five burgers would be tasted at their peak, within seconds of coming off the grill. Once lots were drawn, the chefs repaired to the rear kitchen to prep. As soon as number 1 (Jason Zimmerman of Christopher’s) was ready, he took to the grill and started cooking. The minute his burgers were plated, placed on a tray and carried to the judges by Heldrich food and beverage director Gershon, the next chef took his place in the open kitchen at his choice of stove, griddle or grill.
Most of the entries were proven crowd-pleasers leaping directly from the menus of their respective restaurants. The Christopher’s team, however, had brainstormed, inventing new burgers just for the contest. “We did a six-burger tasting on Friday,” declared one of the team. “The winner was incredibly juicy.”
It was also incredibly complex, involving a Texas toast (aka thick-sliced) brioche bun with toppings of caramelized shallots, oven-dried “teardrop” tomatoes, bone marrow aioli, braised short rib meat and fried parsley. Nonetheless, it made a strong first impression. “I would take a trip to eat this burger,” said Ozersky, who in fact had done just that. (An Atlantic City native, he now lives in Brooklyn.) “I would be surprised if this burger is not in my top three.”
Entry number 2 was the signature burger of the Rocky Hill Inn, topped with cheddar, grilled onions, bacon and the surprise of a sunnyside-up egg. “The yolk gets all gooey and that’s what makes the burger good,” explained chef/owner Evan Blomgren, expertly cracking eggs onto the griddle with one hand. The burger was served open-face, top bun on the side.
In the judges’ room, Faison clapped the lid on and lifted it to his lips. “A breakfast burger!” he enthused. “Here we go.” It was big, and Saferstein had trouble getting her hands around it. The judges did like its looks. “Maybe there is something to be said for appearance scores,” said Ozersky. Still, he jotted down on his score sheet, “Hard to eat.”
Third up were the road warriors of Lucky Bones Backwater Grille, who had driven more than 120 miles to set before the judges a blend of ground chuck, short rib and skirt steak. “People want something new,” said chef Sean McCullough, “and I think we’re giving that to them with this blend.” Like all the chefs, McCullough had to get the feel of the flame broiler, which he estimated to be running at 350 to 400 degrees. “It’s hot!” he said. At that temperature, all six burgers (one in each batch was sent to the photographers for a portrait, followed by freelance nibbling) cooked in about eight minutes or less. Schlager, lifting his top bun, examined the patty and said, “I like the char.”
The panel’s Burger number 4 was dubbed the “French Onion” by its makers from Burger Deluxe in Wayne. “We get the idea from the French onion soup,” said partner Zeki Yesilyurt. “We caramelize our onions with the white wine and thyme and then we add some nice beef broth in there. And then we simmer the onions slowly until real nice.” The French onions were slipped underneath the patty, which was topped with Gruyere cheese and a crispy/tangy parmesan crust. The judges thought there was too much beef stock in the onions, which made for a wet bottom.
Coincidentally, the French onion theme returned in Burger number 5 (chef Oleg Zelenko and the Vincentown Diner). The burger had crispy, deep-fried frizzled onions instead of simmered French ones, but each came with what looked like a cup of soup—actually beef and chicken stock jus. Zelenko declared it “my little secret, French onion soup minus onions.” The burger had other talking points: all the competitors’ rolls were toasted, Zelenko’s were buttered as well; the patties were topped with melted Swiss cheese and a squiggle of creamy horseradish sauce; the patty was of 100 percent Jersey-raised grass-fed beef, which is naturally leaner than grain-finished beef.
“It’s a very original concept,” Ozersky said. “And the chef has avoided the folly of lettuce and tomato.” One judge cut his in half and dipped an end into the steaming jus. But after taking a bite his comment concerned the patty. “It’s a bit too lean,” he said. “It needs more fat.” “I’m sorry,” Tanner countered. “This chef knew what he was doing. He has exactly the right proportions of everything.”
To help the judges keep track, one of each sampled burger was lined up along the edge of the long table when the other plates were removed. We were now halfway through. Five partly consumed bur-gers formed a disheveled chorus line. The judges were wisely pacing themselves, resisting the urge to take extra bites of the ones they liked best.
In came number 6. Compared to the teetering towers that had preceded it, this one, from chef Zod Arifai’s Next Door, was broad but compact. Ozersky, showing his expertise, seized on a truth about Arifai’s burger. “This is from a black pan,” he announced. “Whoever made this used clarified butter in a hot pan.” Topped just with partly melted cheddar (partial melting retains more cheese flavor, Arifai later explained) and caramelized onions, this burger, declared Saferstein, “isn’t overwhelming. You can enjoy it. I love the bun. These onions are really good.” Faison noted, “the cheese has a more pronounced flavor than what we’ve been having.”
Ozersky was the most enthusiastic. “This is a perfectly constructed burger,” he said. “We haven’t had one where the cheese and bun just perfectly complement the burger and create a transparency. Not only that, but look at the crust. It’s perfect mahogany from edge to edge.” Mr. One Bite then gave the ultimate compliment: “I ate more than I needed to. It’s just so easy going down.”
Unknown to the judges, burger number 7—at 11 ounces the biggest of the day—was at a slight disadvantage. Coming from Stage Left, which is across the street from the Heldrich, it is normally cooked over an applewood fire, which produces a lot of smoke when the fat drips down, imparting a smoky taste to the meat. For the competition, chef J.R. Belt started the patties on the wood fire, “marking” them, before bringing them across the street to be finished on the Heldrich’s gas grill. One of the judges declared it “the best beef I’ve had yet today, but it’s not cooked properly. It’s nearly raw inside. There is a certain temperature you have to hit.” Dressed with thick slices of tomato and red onion, plus lettuce, plus that thick patty, the burger was one of the tallest of the day. Commented another judge, “This is like the new building they just put up in Abu Dhabi.”
The judges faulted burger number 8, from Frankie’s in Point Pleasant Beach, for being overcooked, though it did have a beautiful char and mouth-watering lava flows of glossy cheddar. One judge didn’t care for the kaiser roll.
The ninth, from the Iron Horse, was given points for “the great aroma from the fresh basil,” two judges noted. But the panel didn’t care for the mozzarella with which the patty was stuffed, deeming it “gummy.”
The final burger, with its beautiful dark char and glistening toasted bun, was judged perhaps the most attractive of the day. Hopes ran high that it would be a grand slam. Instead, as the panelists bit into it, number 10 (from Copeland in Morristown) struck out. The patty was nearly raw inside. “That’s not what I wanted for the last one,” a judge said reprovingly.
The judges had been giving each burger point scores in five categories: bun, patty, toppings, appearance and overall edibility. Now they totalled up the scores, then assigned each burger a final rank, from one to ten. The results were tallied and the burgers were ranked accordingly.
Rocky Hill Inn took fourth place with a score of 25 points. Three other burgers tied with the day’s best scores, so the judges used first-place votes as tie-breakers. Burgers 1 (Christopher’s in the Heldrich) and 7 (Stage Left) each had one first-place vote. The judges—still not knowing the identities of the contestants—held a run-off vote between the two, which resulted in Stage Left finishing third and Christopher’s second. A strong performance by the two New Brunswick restaurants.
There was no doubt about the overall winner. Burger number 6 (Zod Arifai’s Next Door) got three first-place votes.
It was the simplest burger of the day. Just the patty, caramelized onions and aged Vermont cheddar. Actually, there was one other ingredient, which Arifai called critical—salt.
“Salting is the most important element in any cooking,” he said. “You can have the best meat, best fish, best vegetables, but if you don’t salt properly it won’t taste good. And,” he added, “it’s just as important not to oversalt as not to undersalt.”
After the four winners were announced to good-natured applause, the chefs, NJM staffers, photographers and videographers dispersed. The judges went on their way. My competition organizer duties done, I had a strange hankering for a hamburger.
| CHRISTOPHER'S |
| in the Heldrich Hotel, 10 Livingston Ave., New Brunswick (732-729-4670; theheldrich.com) |
| CHEF: Jason Zimmerman FOOD & BEVERAGE DIRECTOR: Jason Gershon CLAIM TO FAME: Host of the NJM Great Burger Showdown. NJM ★★★ review, 2007 |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: 85 percent lean/15 percent fat, organic beef BUN: Brioche Texas toast TOPPINGS: Braised short rib, caramelized shallots, oven-dried teardrop tomatoes, bone marrow aioli, fried parsley
|
| ROCKY HILL INN |
| 137 Washington St., Rocky Hill (609-683-8930, rockyhilltavern.com) |
CHEF: Evan Blomgren
OWNERS: Evan and Maria Blomgren CLAIM TO FAME: Strong recommendations from readers writing to burgers@njmonthly.com. |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: Strip steak, short rib,
pancetta BUN: Brioche TOPPINGS: Cheddar, grilled onions, applewood-smoked bacon, sunnyside-up egg |
| COPELAND |
| in the Westin Governor Morris Hotel, 2 Whippany Rd., Morristown (973-451-2619; copelandrestaurant.com) |
| CHEF: Robert Trainor CONSULTING CHEF: Thomas Ciszak CLAIM TO FAME: One of NJM's 25 Best Restaurants in the state, 2009-10; burger a Critics' Pick, 2009-10. |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: 1/2 Wagyu beef, 1/2 Black Angus BUN: Black pepper sesame brioche TOPPINGS: Gruyere, applewood-smoked bacon, TC Steak Sauce, lettuce, tomato
|
| THE IRON HORSE |
| 20 Washington Ave., Westwood (201-666-9682; theironhorse.com) |
CHEF: Sean Tremble
OWNER: Lee Tremble CLAIM TO FAME: Popular Bergen County pub known for its stuffed burgers. |
| THE BURGER |
"The Margherita"
PATTY: 85 percent lean/15 percent fat beef, stuffed with mozzarella BUN: Ciabatta roll TOPPINGS: Red and yellow marinated roasted tomatoes, chopped fresh basil |
| LUCKY BONES |
| 1200 Route 109, Cape May (609-884-2663; luckybonesgrille.com) |
| CHEF: Shaun McCullough OWNERS: David and Michael Craig CLAIM TO FAME: One of the most popular restaurants in one of the Garden State's busiest, most competitive restaurant towns. |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: Chuck, short rib, skirt steak
BUN: Snow Wolf, Formica Brothers Bakery, Atlantic City TOPPINGS: Caramelized onions, bacon, applewood-smoked cheddar, l |
| BURGER DELUXE |
| 1420 Route 23 North, Wayne (973-305-0033; livanosrestaurantgroup.com) |
CHEF: Leo Ramirez
OWNER (PARTNER): Zeki Yesilyurt CLAIM TO FAME: Popular specialty burger restaurant with the soul of a Greek diner |
| THE BURGER |
"French Onion Burger"
PATTY: Brisket BUN: Brioche TOPPINGS: French onion, Gruyere, parmesan crust, lettuce, tomato |
| VINCENTOWN DINER |
| 2357 Route 206, Vincentown (609-267-3033; vincentowndiner.com) |
| CHEF: Oleg Zelenko OWNER: Jimmy Melissaratos CLAIM TO FAME: Well-regarded South Jersey diner known for using local, seasonal ingredients and grass-fed beef. |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: Organic grass-fed chuck and sirloin from Simply Grazin Organic Farm in Skillman BUN: Rustic kaiser roll from Olde World Bakery and Cafe, Mount Holly TOPPINGS: Frizzled
onions, Alpine Lace swiss cheese, horseradish sauce, cup of beef/ chicken jus on the side |
| FRANKIE'S BAR & GRILL |
| 414 Route 35 South, Point Pleasant Beach (732-892-6000; frankiesbarandgrille.com) |
CHEF: Dennis Sullivan
OWNER: Frank Kineavy CLAIM TO FAME: Best Burger, South, NJM Readers' Poll, 2009-10 |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: 80 percent lean/
20 percent fat "special blend" BUN: Poppy-seed Kaiser roll TOPPINGS: Lettuce, tomato, red onion, cheddar, bacon |
| STAGE LEFT |
| 5 Livingston Ave., New Brunswick (732-828-4444; stageleft.com) |
| CHEF: J.R. Belt OWNERS: Mark Pascal, Francis Schott and Lou Riverio CLAIM TO FAME: Best Burger, Central, NJM Readers' Poll, 2006-08; burger inducted into NJM's "Best Of" Hall of Fame, 2007. |
| THE BURGER |
PATTY: 80 percent lean/
20 percent fat sirloin BUN: Brioche TOPPINGS: Lettuce, tomato, red onion, chipotle mayo, ketchup, 3-year-aged cheddar, bacon |
| NEXT DOOR |
| 556 Bloomfield Ave., Montclair (973-744-3600; restaurantblu.com/nextdoor) |
CHEF/OWNER: Zod Arifai
CLAIM TO FAME: Best Burger, North, NJM Readers' Poll, 2009-10; NJM Critics' Pick, 2008-09. |
| THE BURGER |
| PATTY: 80 percent lean/20 percent fat chuck, plus hanger steak, short rib BUN: Brioche from Balthazar Bakery, Englewood TOPPINGS: Caramelized onions, Vermont sharp cheddar |
With but two moving parts, the basic hamburger is one of the simplest foods around, on a par with the hot dog, and simpler than the dough-sauce-cheese triad of plain pizza. Still, identifying the best hamburger in New Jersey is no simple task, especially because chefs have come to treat the premium burger as blank canvas—or as upwardly mobile missile, deploying its payload of exotic beef blends, caramelized onions, aged cheeses and farmstead bacons into the culinary blue yonder.
Location:
New Brunswick, NJ, USA
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