National Pasta Day: Marea, NYC

We didn't know that the day we decided to meet after work at Marea (midtown, Central Park South & Broadway) for a casual dinner that it was National Pasta Day. Had we known, there probably wouldn't have been anywhere else we would have picked to honor this incredible carbohydrate.

Arriving at 5:00pm to grab to seats at the bar - coveted, quickly snatched up, seats. They start serving the full menu at the bar at 5:30pm which makes it a popular choice at this restaurant who's reputation and two Michelin stars make it hard to get a reservation in the dining room.

We went low key - crudos and pasta dishes. So to start, three bite size pieces of perfection. After much contemplation & discussion, we choose, from right to left, the Scampi (Pacifi c langoustine, Murray River pink salt); Ono (seared wild Pacifi c wahoo, wild mushroom, lobster roe) and the Dentice (Pacifi c snapper, mandarin orange, pistachio, carrot vinaigrette). The selection of crudos on the is stunning and diverse.

SIDE BAR: One night I'd like to go and order every single selection in a Crudo Taste Off. It would cost $407 before tax and tip and would consist of 21 different kinds, 4 pieces of each....if anyone wants to take me up on that just say the word!!!

The scampi was light, buttery soft with a cucumber it's sitting on giving a hint of crunch to offset the wonderfully mushy texture of the langoustine. Excellent.

The Ono was a more earthy flavor if you can say that about fish. The seared edges added smokiness while the mushroom gave it that forest flavor. Very nice.

And our favorite, the snapper with the citrus of the mandarin orange and nutiness of the pistachio was just perfect. Could have eaten those all night.

Then came the pastas. It's almost as hard to choose these as the first courses. We knew we wanted our favorite, the fusilli. But what else? After contemplating all we went for the agnolotti which were piemontese meat ravioli, veal sweetbreads, wild mushrooms in a brown butter. The kitchen was kind enough to split both pastas for us and serve them one after the other - our casual dinner was a three course meal!

First up was the fusilli...red wine braised octopus and bone marrow in a perfect red sauce.

This is hands down THE BEST pasta dish I've ever had. Ever, anywhere. There's something magical about the crispiness of the octopus; the decadence of the bone marrow and the perfect al dente fusilli that just creates perfect culinary harmony. I've had it four times now and it's always flawless.

The second, new pasta was the ravioli.

A much heavier pasta, the sweetbreads were tender; the mushrooms gave depth and the brown butter added a sweetness. Also an amazing dish. We were glad that they split the dishes for us - a full plate of the agnolotti would have proven to be too much for one person. In this manner, it was exactly the right amount. Full but not uncomfortable - a wonderful dinner once again.

I can't say enough about Marea. If you get the chance, you need to go. And then go again.
Jenn's Rating: 91
Michelin: Two Stars
Zagat:28-26-26

Eating in Sin City: Scarpetta

There's a real danger in having an amazing meal: that the magic can't be recaptured. I worry about this every time we revisit a place that scored high or that was truly memorable...will it be able to live up? While in Vegas we took that chance by going back to Scarpetta.

M&S went during their anniversary trip in 2012 and raved about it. So I went with Mom in October of the same year and was thrilled that we had such a similiar - fantastic meal. Going for the three-peat, we booked our final dinner there this last trip. It would Alan's first experience.

We were seated at one of the large, comfortable semi-circular booths that are quite nice. But this one was located so close to the entrance I felt immediately like we were missing out on the ambiance you get when you go deep into the center of this dark, modern yet chic restaurant. We also couldn't see the Bellagio fountains.

We ordered a round of appetizers and then pasta dishes. I don't have all the dishes captured in pictures but you'll get a sense...

White asparagus soup with crab & croutons. I ordered this - I love cream based soups and crab is my favorite thing on the planet...especially blue crab which this dish contained. And can't imagine my disappointment when I realized it was lacking seasoning and came off as quite bland. Couldn't really taste the crab and the whole thing needed salt or something savory to save the dish.

Raw yellowtail. Fresh, nice.

Crispy fritto misto (seafood, vegetables, lentils). Why lentils? Ok.

Braised short ribs with vegetables and farro risotto. Nicely cooked - fall apart beef. Good dish overall.

Pici with lobster, tarragon & almond and chili pesto. This sounds like something that should have just had my name on it. But the tarragon was overwhelming and the other favors got lost. Such a shame.

Duck & foie gras ravioli. I liked this dish (it wasn't mine) much better than the pici I ordered. Alas, it wasn't so I only got a bite before sending it back to it's rightful owner. Probably the best dish of the night.

Overall, it didn't live up to the past. Pasta dishes weren't showstoppers and the appetizers failed to excite. Next time in Vegas, I'll skip this one in favor of trying a new place.

Jenn's Rating: 81 (for reference, I scored this an 88 the last time)
Zagat: 25-25-26

Marea, NYC

Patty and I were wanting to go back to Marea once one of their pasta dishes showed up on a NYC list as best pasta dishes in the country. It doesn't take much to get us to want to go back so in mid-January we met at the bar early for good seats and good food.

We started off with a bottle of champagne (Brut Blanc de Blancs, La Caravelle) and a platter of crudos including Ono (seared wild pacific wahoo), Tonno (bigeye tuna), mackerel and langoustine. If you haven't been to Marea I so wish you would ~ truly amazing! Their ability to pair these bites of fish with perfect accompanyments to bring out the natural differences in each one. So incredible!

And for our entree - pasta!
We got the BEST PASTA DISH anywhere...the fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow. And the new dish, spaghetti with crab, santa barbara sea urchin and basil.

Always faced with the hope that memory and hype will be lived up to when that fusilli is put down in front of you - it only takes one bite to know that yes, this is an exceptional, perfect, incredible dish.

The crab dish was also really, really good. Lighter and a touch sweeter, this one speaks to freshness and the wonderful combination of tomato to basil. The sea urchin and crab not getting lost and adding a lovely texture.

There really just isn't a better place to have pasta in NYC. Eating at the bar is fun and comfortable if you don't want the formality of the main dining - just get there early!!

Jenn's Rating: 95
Zagat: 26-26-25
Michelin: Two stars

Herbsaint, New Orleans

For our final dinner in New Orleans over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend we went to Donald Link's Herbsaint. Located on Saint Charles Street in the warehouse district this little bistro has both indoor seating and outdoor at little tables on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant. It was a beautiful evening out so we sat outside.

We started with a bottle of Delamotte blanc de blancs non-vintage. And I learned something I didn't know from my husband; Delmotte is the sister winery of Salon. In years when Salon doesn't produce their top line, vintage champagne, the grapes from there single vineyard will go to Delamotte. This particular bottle was truly lovely. Off to a good start!

Our main server was a jovial young woman who was happy to share her thoughts with us on some of the dishes as we navigated the menu. After making our selections they brought us out warm bread and an amuse bouche that was a little shrimp and mango tartlette. Very good.

Our first course was the gumbo of the day (chicken with andouille sausage) and the Louisiana jumbo lump crab meat with mustard frill and toasted brioche.

Nothing makes me happier than a simply done dish that can let the delicate flavor of crab meat shine through. Louisiana blue crab has a distinct flavor profile in line with the Maryland blue crab; this preparation was excellent. I loved every single bite. Alan's gumbo was hearty and very good though after having eaten gumbo a few times he did comment that he likes it a little better when it's more stew like and less soupy.

Next round we tried was the beef short rib with potato rosti and salsa verde along with a dish of burrata with city ham and herb pistou.

The short ribs were FANTASTIC. Super tender - slow cooked for what must have been a seriously long time to get that much infused flavor and that perfect consistency. So good!! The burrata was also very nice and I loved the city ham. The two aspects of the dish were quite good by themselves though I'm not sure they were better if you paired them together.

For our entrees Alan ordered the Kurobuta pork belly with cajun grain risotto, grilled pok choi and shrimp broth.

This is one of those dishes that just makes you happy that some people are gifted when it comes to cooking. Look at that beautiful pork with the distinguished fat layer and the dark crust. Excellent. The risotto was also out of this world. The entire dish was one of the best of the trip.

I hoped to go two for two on pasta dishes by choosing the house made spaghetti with Guanciale and fried, poached farm egg.

Oh Lord...this was an amazing dish. It might be the best pasta I've ever had in my entire life. Yes, I'm saying that this one might knock Marea's fusilli with crispy octopus and bone marrow off the pedestal. It is that good. Cheese, creole spices, creamy sauce, a runny and fabulous fried, poached egg... perfection. Pure and simple.

Herbsaint was the best of the restaurants we ate at start to finish. Every dish was on the mark and a few of them were blow-you-away fantastic. This should be on everyone's list of places to try. There's no way I'd go back to New Orleans and not eat here again.

Zagat's Rating: 27-23-25
Jenn's Rating: 92

Pasta with Asparagus and Scrambled Eggs

From the May 2012 edition of Everyday Food and the kitchen of Martha Steward Living, a super simple recipe that's quick and yummy.

I love trying recipes from the food magazines I get - especially Food & Wine and Bon Appetit. I've also given a go to a few from Everyday Food with not great results. This time however, I'm happy to report that it tasted as good as it was easy to make. The only changes we made to this recipe were to add red pepper flakes to the cooked pasta to give a little more zip. If we make it again we'll also try using a shaped pasta instead of spaghetti.

Pasta with Asparagus and Scrambled Eggs

Serves: 4
Preparation Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:

• Course salt & ground black pepper
• 3/4 pound spaghetti
• 1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 ounces (1/2 cup) Parmesan cheese plus more for serving
• 5 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/4 cup Ricotta cheese

In a large pot of boiling, salted water cook pasta 1 minute less than package instructions. Add asparagus and cook 1 minute. Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water then drain.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in the pot over medium-high heat and add 1/4 cup of pasta water. Add pasta / asparagus mixture and Parmesan cheese. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add more pasta water if necessary to create a light sauce that coats pasta.

In a small nonstick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over medium heat. Add eggs and cook, stirring until just set. Divide pasta into four plates, top with eggs, dollop of ricotta cheese, salt & pepper and serve immediately.

Marea, the Three-peat

This past week was another get together of the Manhattan Ladies Dining Club. The MLDC decided to up the ante after a mediocre showing by Porterhouse by making this month's reservation at the double Michelin starred, Marea. Located on Central Park South at Broadway, this Michael White restaurant has already captured my time and attention with their incredible pasta dishes and phenomenal one bite crudos. But could they repeat this fantastic track record a third time?


Damn it, yes they can!! Patty, Mary (our guest this time) and I started our evening off at the bar; me with a glass of bubbly and them with the house rose. We were seated a few minutes before our 5:45pm reservation in the middle of the main dining room. Being one of the first parties seated we were able to see how quickly this hot spot filled up around us. No empty tables by 6:30pm could be found. Our fourth, and founding member of the MLDC, Gianne, arrived a few minutes after we were seated.


Our format for the evening was decided upon; a course of six crudo bites, a shared round of antipasti and then pasta. For the crudos we chose Scampi (pacific lanougstines with Murray River pink salt); Sparnocchi (Canadian side striped shrimp with lemon and black lava salt); Ono (wild pacific Wahoo with red grapes and oregano); Tonno (big eye tuna with oyster crema and crispy artichokes); and Astice (Nova Scotia lobster with sun dried tomatoes and olives).


Before the first course arrived we were presented with our selected bottle of champagne (Egly-Ouriet, non vintage brut) and an amuse bouche of chilled soup that I honestly can't remember what was in it...other than it was light green in color and there were red grape segments that stuck to the bottom of the little shot glass. Hopefully someone else remembers. Nice, light and refreshing.


The first course was served! Gorgeous, aren't they? The Scampi served on the slice of cucumber was the group's least favorite simply because it had the least amount of flavor although still clean with a great texture. These one biters continue to be pretty amazing if you like raw fish...in this case the Ono, Tonna and Sparnocchi really stood out and go so nicely with champagne.

For our next course we picked three antipasta dishes to share; Astice (Nova Scotia lobster with burrata, eggplant al funghetto and basil); Uovo (poached egg, spring garlic, bone marrow, baby eel, passatelli and barley bordo); and a blue crab salad.

These three were standouts...the poached egg was amazing with such incredible balance of tastes - the running yoke, creamy sauce and saltiness from the eel. And the lobster with burrata; fantastic!

The pasta course came up next... Patty and I both ordered the dish that Marea has become known for (and possibly the single best pasta dish of all time), the fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow pictured first. Gianne opted for the rigantoni with shrimp, sepia, squid ink and pecorino. Mary ventured to the right side of the menu and selected the Mare risotti (risotto of shrimp, lobster and scallops).

The fusilli remains the king of dishes...it is perfection. The squid ink dish was a little less flavorful and felt like something was missing. Not sure what, but it didn't have the completeness of the fusilli or other pasta dishes we've had here in the past. The risotto was one the dish I was most intrigued by since no one that we've dined with yet had ordered a risotto. It looked great but it too came up a little short in my mind. It was creamy, yes and cooked to the correct level of al dente. But I didn't feel the seafood came out enough to identify it as a Mare course. Don't get me wrong, really good but it could have been phenomenal and my expectations were high. Every bite of all four dishes got finished.

With our main course we went with the sommelier's recommendation for a red: Palari Faro, an Italian medium bodied, berry / cherry nosed with moderate tannins, it was a 20o6 vintage from Sicily that was priced mid-range and was quite enjoyable. Heartier than a pinot but not anywhere close to a cab, it fit the dishes well.

We decided to skip dessert, being full from three courses - but our attentive and friendly server brought us out this dish to split and finish our evening. I remember basically nothing about it other than the sorbet was wickedly yummy with a deep fruit flavor - maybe black cherry? Really good.

All in all, another wonderful meal at Marea and the highest caliber dinner to date of our dining club. I think we've raised the bar with this one! It'll be interesting to see where we end up for our December dinner.

Jenn's rating: 90

Michelin: 2 stars

Zagat: 28-26-26

Pazzo, Red Bank

Red Bank, New Jersey is a fun place to go for dinner. It's a small town with a lot of restaurants, bars and boutiques in a four square block area. On nice nights all the restaurants have open air or outdoor dining and it's a great place to walk around afterwards to digest or grab an ice cream. We go through spurts of eating in Red Bank...lately we haven't really been. So it was nice to get back there the week of Alan's birthday with Lisa & Guy. And it was even better because we tried a new place, Pazzo.

Lisa & Guy had been there a bunch of times already - it was our first time. The restaurant opened a year ago, right on West Front Street. It's got parking in the next door garage. This is important - in the middle of summer on nice nights, finding street parking in Red Bank takes a miracle.

We all get appetizers and entrees. Lisa & Guy ordered the fried calamari and carpaccio topped with olive oil, arugula and Parmesan. I didn't try the carpaccio but the calamari was very good. Lightly breaded, big pieces and a nice, fresh, somewhat sweet marinara to dip. Alan had the Caesar salad that was just okay, lacking flavor. I had the Prince Island Mussels in garlic, shallots, white wine and herbs and served with a crostini. They were great - big, clean, flavorful and the broth was excellent. I dunked both the crostini and then resorted to spooning up the broth for a few extra tastes before letting the dish go.

For entrees, Lisa & Guy shared one of the evening's specials of monkfish, scallops and clams over pasta in a white sauce. Alan and I also had pasta dishes...his was the linguine with prosciutto and reminded us of a carbonara. He liked it - eating the entire serving. But don't judge, I ordered the penne ala vodka and not only ate everything on my plate but finished it before any of them were even halfway through their entrees. The pasta was fresh and the sauce creamy without being too heavy.

This is the type of place that will appeal to everyone. Super casual, big bar, outdoor seating and a traditional Italian menu with lots of flavor. We'll go back!