Cafe Panache is a lovely little restaurant in a tiny, northern town of Ramsy, NJ. We've been many times years and years ago when we lived in Westchester and finally had the stars align to get back there this week. It's BYO with a changing, eclectic menu. Beyond that, one of things that make this particular restaurant endearing to us is that we know the family that owns and operates it. Chef Kohler has been running this favorite Bergen county spot for more than 26 years now and there's a reason people keep going back. We were lucky enough to share our evening and table with Chef Kohler's daughter and personal friend, Kristie and her finance, Mike - fun foodies that are always up for night out for eating & drinking.
In the time since we were there last, Panache has gone through major renovations. The restaurant is an elegant venue with floor to ceiling windows in the front overlooking Main Street and soothing tones of blue and beige. Quite a change since the last time we were there it's got an ambiance of comfortable chic.
Kristie was kind enough to take the helm and order our first two courses for all of us to share. To start us off she choose three appetizer dishes - a tartare of tuna with avocado and crostini; a beef carpaccio with shaved Parmesan and mixed greens and an octopus salad.
The tuna was fresh and had that firm texture that Alan and I like so much. Simply prepared with the ginger on top and the ripe avocado allowed the tuna to shine. Very nice! The carpaccio was sliced micro thin and was beautifully plated. The mixed greens gave the contrasting crunch and the cheese offered the saltiness that we come to want with a traditional carpaccio. This dish was good though I would have liked to have a more prominent balsamic flavor add a little more depth. And finally, the octopus. WOW. Gorgeous, large sections grilled or sauteed with a light dusting of pepper and the dressing from the salad set off the mollusk in a most wonderful way. I loved, loved, LOVED this dish!
For our next course Kristie requested that the kitchen prepare all of us a tasting of the menu's two ravioli featured that evening; pumpkin and filet mignon, each served in a brown butter sauce.
If you have ever eaten with me or you've ever read any of these posts you'll know that I'm a big fan of pasta. Panache makes their pasta fresh each day and the ravioli showcased their expertise. Delicate and fresh - really allowing the flavors from within to shine through without being heavy. These two were very different, as you'd expect. The pumpkin was a lovely surprise with a sweetness that complimented so well the butter sauce. I pretty much hate pumpkin...right up until someone as gifted as Chef Kohler creates their magic and sticks it into a pillow of happiness. Yum! But you know what...even being that great, the filet was still the winner of the Ravioli battle on my plate. The beef was an earthy, dark contrast to the sweet butter sauce that just worked perfectly. An excellent culinary bite.
For our entrees we covered off on four house favorites...pasta, duck, beef and chicken.
The pasta with shrimp was done in a spicy marinara sauce over fresh spaghetti. The duck was presented two ways - roasted breast and confit leg with wild rice and au jus. The sirloin with steam vegetables had a blackened crust and cooked to a perfect medium rare. And finally the chicken over polenta done with...cranberries or maybe cherries? I don't quite recall. The pasta was so flavorful and fresh it seemed weightless; the duck was awesome - when done right, there's no better expression of fowl than leg of confit duck. The sirloin had a nice flavor and a good balance between tender and yet hearty and finally the chicken was super moist and avoided any pitfalls of being too "ordinary". I personally think the duck took top honors but all four dishes were very good.
All in all - such a nice evening. A bottle of champagne and a bottle of red went down easily as did the conversation and the food. Highly recommend giving this one a try if you're up in Bergen county!
Zagat's Rating: 27-23-25
