Getting reservations at this hot spot takes a miracle or the fastest set of dialing fingers imaginable. But good for us, Brian possess such fingers (using an Apple iPhone 4 I'm told). It's a fixed price; pay in advance no nonsense reservation. The Kennedy's got a reservation for 4 people at the first seating, 7pm and asked Alan and I if we'd be interested in joining them. So not only were we going to get to try this newly minted Michelin two star restaurant, I was going to take my first trip to this mystical borough.
After a starter bottle of champagne 1999 Charles Heidseick Rose at their gorgeous Murray Hill apartment (and a chance to meet Sushi, the incredible Bengal that resides with them), Brian & Molly arranged for a car service to take us to the restaurant. With no traffic, we made it there in less than 20 minutes. But alas, you aren't allowed in until exactly 7pm, so sitting on the cement wall of a nearby apartment building and chatting, we killed the next half hour.
A little bit about Brooklyn Fare. It's a grocery store. Really, see for yourself (http://www.brooklynfare.com/). Somewhere along the way, they decided to experiment with a chef's table dining experience. Separated from the store by a few dozen yards and having its own entrance, the restaurant is an oddity in the high end dining world that is New York City. First off, it's really small. There's only the one room fronted by floor to ceiling windows right on the street. It's a rectangle with almost the entire space occupied by a rectangle shaped, stainless steel counter. The center is open and where Michele, the head server (pictured below and who ultimately will be the sommelier if and when they get their liquor license) resides, bustling back and forth between the patrons (sitting on stools) and the chefs & kitchen staff who line the back wall where their cooking surface, appliances, plating area and prep space are located. Diners sit along the three sides of the counter elbow to elbow. But not to worry, there are only eighteen people seated at once so it's just not crowded. We were lucky enough to be seated on the corner allowing for conversation across the four of us.
There was also an ice filled sink behind where we were sitting for patrons to put their champagne and white wines. Along the same wall, actually on the street side window are shelves filled with all manner of wine glasses and flutes. This set up might seem closed in when you first arrive and navigate to your seat but ends up being highly efficient and quite intimate. I was very comfortable all evening.
After sitting in our seats we got down to the business of opening champagne, getting glasses, chilling the whites and getting a feel for what was about to happen. Brian & Molly have been here once before (in March, for Molly’s birthday). Alan and I were excited and intrigued by the set up and the prospect of having what the Kennedy’s have said was one of the best meals they’ve ever had. Now that’s a high bar to clear!
I mentioned earlier that Brooklyn Fare is BYO. It seems they have applied for, and are waiting for, their liquor license. Michele also mentioned that it was expected to be in hand in less than three weeks. Until then, we and the other diners came well equipped with multiple bottles. For us, this was a chance to bring out some pretty great bottles from the cellar. I mean, imagine if you will getting to choose bottles from your collection to take to a Per Se, French Laundry or Daniel; fantastic prospect, right? Right! I will not be able to give an accurate account of the bottles but I know Alan or Brian will comment on this post to add those details. What I do remember clearly is that we started with incredible champagne – the 1990 Salon. Easily one of the best bottles I’ve ever had. Ever!
In these first few minutes when everyone getting in and seated, opening up their wines and settling down, the chef and kitchen staff are preparing our first courses. And here’s where the magic starts…there are easily twenty different single bite dishes served to us over the next hour. One after the other with clockwork precision – the beautiful little bite is set in front of you in its little dish with little spoons or forks – the chef calling out the composition of ingredients and reiterating that it’s meant to be eaten in a single bite. You’ll see no pictures of these incredible morsels – written on the menu card and enforced is the restaurant’s policy of no pictures, no note taking and no cell phones. All pictures you see here are copied from a New York Times article published in April of this year. In any case, I’m sure even if I could inventory each and every bite; it would in no way do justice to the absolute phenomenon that was each bite. All were a fish or shellfish of some kind – snapper, fluke, oyster, langoustine, crab, sea urchin…they just kept coming in their picture perfect presentations and incredible accompaniments. There was caviar, rice, brioche, celery, sea foam, truffles, saffron, mushrooms, peppers…each tiny bite with its little piece of heaven…there’s almost no way to describe them all.
(Chef Cesar Ramirez; Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare (copied from the New York Times, April 26, 2011; article & review by Sam Sifton; pictures by Evan Sung)
After the parade of single bites comes to an end, the menu actually starts. There are another seven courses. These are written in a simple menu and each only described with a single word. Those words were: Madai, Turbot, Rouget, Duck, Cheese, Sorbet and Dessert.
The main courses are a little bigger; two, maybe three bites for each. And they were as phenomenal as their little sister dishes before. The picture you see here is Madai (snapper) with Japanese rice, sea urchin and Burgundy truffle.
During the evening we savored but downed three additional bottles of wine after the Salon. Compliments of Brian & Molly they were a white burgundy and Chablis plus a red Alan brought; a Kistler Pinot Noir. I loved the wines with this meal thinking that they did a superb job of complimenting the flavors of each dish. It was a perfect wine & food evening, no doubt.
It was an absolutely incredible food experience. So much so that I think it’s a top 10. If you can, you need to try the chef’s table at Brooklyn Fare. I promise you, it’s SO worth the trip!
Jenn’s Rating: 98
Zagat: not yet rated
Michelin: two stars
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