90 Acres Birthday dinner

Wednesday evening, Steve, Emma and I celebrated our joint birthdays at the Natirar estate restaurant, 90 Acres in Far Hills, NJ. We have been to this restaurant several times before with mixed results. One of favorite chefs, David Felton, opened this restaurant in Winter, 2009 and in concept, we were immediate fans. Felton, formerly of the Pluckemin Inn, was hand selected by owner Sir Richard Branson to conceptualize, create and open the signature restaurant on his 90 acre slice of the almost 400 acre Natirar park. The restaurant was the first to open, with a resort and spa soon following after.

First and foremost is the chef’s desire to create a truly farm to table experience, with the farm literally at the diner’s window (maybe too close for those on the verge of vegetarianism). Steve and I have participated in the Viking Culinary School on the estate before, and have had the opportunity to walk through the growing farm filled with rows upon rows of herbs, vegetables and live stock.



Our first dining experience at 90 Acres was during the opening month. The drive up through the park to the restaurant is breathtaking, and creates a grand entrance. One note, there is no self parking, only valet. The food was moderately memorable to our experience at Pluckemin, but service was scattered and unimpressive. The wine list is good, but generally Sommelier Brooke Sabel was absent. Unfortunately during this most recent visit, it was her evening off – so I wish I could say more, but to mention that the waiter was fortunately well equipped to make at least the basic pairing recommendations.

To begin, I started with a pre dinner cocktail – the Pear Sidecar, made of pear cognac, orange liquor and lemon. It was refreshing, but perhaps a little more sugary sweet than I would like. Steve ordered a glass of Paul Laurent Champagne Brut Rosé, which he commented was refreshing and delicious!

For appetizers, we had done a little research online and were both excited for the Imperial Wagyu steak tartare, with chimichurri, pickled red onions, two-hour yolk & frico. It was reminiscent of one of Steve’s favorite dishes prepared by Felton at the Pluckemin. Unfortunately, to our dismay, the wagyu tartate was no longer on the menu. While disappointing, it’s also good to know the menu is ever changing to reflect only the freshest and most seasonal ingredients.

In the end, I ordered the tuna tartare, which was served in a chilled “soup” of melon with a basil chiffonade. The tuna was delicious and the combination of the melon and basil flavors was absolutely luscious. The winner, though of the appetizer round was Steve’s goat cheese risotto. The risotto itself was perfectly al dente and the goat cheese was incredibly mild flavored, creamy and not overpowering. It was definitely a great choice, even if not his first preference.

For entrees, I ordered the halibut – really delicate and flaky, prepared with light local vegetables including asparagus. Steve ordered the pork chop, with a potato gratin and some sort of apple compote which he loved. The winner was a side of shared mashed potatoes, prepared with olive oil, instead of butter – smooth, creamy and scrumptious. With dinner, Steve had a glass of the Rickshaw 2009 Pinot Noir (a Sonoma Pinot) and I enjoyed the JL Chave Côtes-du-Rhone.

I shouldn’t forget Emma’s entrée, a simply prepared cheeseburger with American cheese and homemade handcut fries. I was incredibly impressed they had a children’s menu, although not necessary given some of the “pub” like menu items, such as flatbread pizza and small pasta plates – but in the end still nice.

Emma’s meal included homemade ice cream, so we all agreed to join her in dessert. I can’t exactly remember Steve’s dessert, except to remember chocolate and an absolutely yummy coffee foam. My dessert was the star, lemon ricotta zeppoles with a lemon curd dipping sauce. I could only finish two of the generous five zeppole portion – so the remainder went to grandma (aka – the babysitter). In addition, and just for fun – we ordered the cheese plate, which was well presented with three cheeses that I can’t exactly remember either, but there was a cow, a goat and a blue, The goat was the clear standout, and the plate was presented with the necessary accompaniments. I ended the meal with a 2009 Tawny port.

The most standout element of the evening was the marked improvement in service. The place has worked out the kinks in service and delivery and has created a fun dining environment. Probably not the best for a quiet, romantic dinner – but a fun place to go with foodie friends and enjoy the open kitchen. I’m sure we’ll be back again soon.